Wood Burner & Fireplace Repairs — Tauranga & Bay of Plenty

Common Problems

Common Wood Burner Problems — Causes and Fixes

These are the faults we're called out for most often, what usually causes them, and what fixes them.

Why is my wood burner smoking into the room?

Smoke coming back into the room usually means the flue isn't drawing properly. The most common causes are a flue that needs sweeping (creosote build-up or a bird's nest), a baffle that has dropped or warped out of position, worn door seals, or a cold flue when the fire is first lit. Extractor fans and a closed-up house can also pull smoke back down.

Start with a chimney sweep and safety check — if the flue is clear, we check the baffle, seals and flue height and fix what's causing it.

Why does the glass on my wood burner keep going black?

Black glass is almost always caused by burning wood that isn't dry enough, or by running the fire with the air turned down too low. Wet wood burns cool and sooty, and the air-wash that keeps the glass clean needs enough air and heat to work.

Burn wood with a moisture content below 25% (the Good Wood standard), get the fire hot before turning it down, and if the glass still blackens quickly, have the door seals and air-wash checked — a worn seal lets air in where it shouldn't.

Why can't I turn my wood burner down, or why does it burn wood so fast?

If the fire roars even with the air control closed, air is getting in somewhere it shouldn't — usually through a worn door rope, a perished glass seal or a damaged air control. Replacing the seals is a quick repair that brings back control of the burn and stops wood disappearing.

My fire bricks are cracked — is it safe to keep using the fire?

Fine hairline cracks in fire bricks are normal and the bricks still do their job. Bricks that are broken, crumbling or missing pieces should be replaced, because they protect the steel firebox from direct heat — running the fire without them can warp or burn through the firebox, which is a far bigger repair.

What does a warped or sagging baffle mean?

A warped baffle is usually the result of overfiring. Once it's out of shape, heat and flames go straight up the flue instead of around the baffle, so the fire uses more wood, heats the room less and can overheat the flue. A replacement baffle (or baffle bricks) restores the fire's efficiency.

Why is my gas fire turning itself off?

A gas fire that lights and then shuts off is usually a pilot, thermocouple or flame-sensing fault, or a safety device reacting to the flue not clearing properly. Don't keep relighting it — have it checked by a qualified technician, who can find the fault and replace the failed part.

Why is there rust or water on top of my fire?

Rust on top of a wood burner, or water in the firebox after rain, usually means water is getting in from the roof — through failed flashing or a damaged flue cap — or condensation from burning wet wood. See reflashing and reflues for how we find and fix leaks at the roof.

Is it worth repairing an old wood burner, or should I replace it?

If the firebox steel is sound, replacing worn bricks, baffles and seals — or a full rebuild — costs a fraction of a new fire and installation. If the firebox itself is cracked or burnt through, parts are no longer available, or the fire isn't approved for use in your area, replacing it is usually the better money. We'll tell you which it is after inspecting the fire.

Common Repairs

The Parts That Wear Out

Every fire has consumable parts that take the heat so the rest of the fire doesn't. When they go, efficiency drops and the firebox itself starts to suffer. We regularly replace:

• Fire bricks and brick sets — cracked or crumbling bricks expose the steel behind them.
• Baffles and baffle bricks — a warped or broken baffle sends heat straight up the flue.
• Air tubes and secondary-air parts — needed for a clean, efficient burn.
• Door glass, glass retainers and seals — so the glass stays clean and the door seals properly.
• Door rope and gasket seals — a leaking seal means a fire you can't turn down.
• Dampers, handles and air controls — so you can actually control the burn.
• Fire cement and minor firebox repairs.

We work with New Zealand's main fire brands and distributors, and for older fires we'll find or fabricate a workable part where the original is no longer made. See Parts & Maintenance for parts supply and annual servicing.

Gas Fires

Gas Fires That Won't Stay Lit

A gas fire that keeps turning itself off, won't ignite, or burns with a lazy yellow flame needs looking at. We service and fault-find gas fires and replace ignition, thermocouple and other components, so the fire runs safely and as it was designed to.